How Do California Olive Oil Producers Assure Quality?

COOC Bottle with certification label

Each year, more than 400 California olive growers’ plant upwards of 37,000 acres with 75 olive varieties, destined for olive oil production. Producers in the state cumulatively turn out two to four million gallons of olive oil per harvest from light to heavy yields, depending on the year. They also prioritize assessment and promotion of their olive oil. Some bottles of California olive oil have certification seals on them, but who issues them and what do they really mean?

Olive Oil Production in California

Although the EU remains the world’s largest olive oil producer – at 2.1 million metric tons (2020) – California olive growers have tripled production, from 4,000 metric tons in 2010 to approximately 16,000 metric tons in 2020. And these producers also grow about 95% of olives from the United States.

The fruit thrives in California’s unique microclimates. “Around 5 -7% of EVOO consumed in the U.S. is from California – and all of California’s production is consumed in the U.S.,” says Chris Zanobini, President/CEO at Ag Association Management Services Inc., and manager for the Olive Oil Commission of California (OOCC).

Over the last five years, the California Olive Oil Council (COOC) has noticed growing interest in olive oil, among consumers. This corresponds with greater effort to educate the public about its health benefits. “In 2022, U.S. [olive oil] consumption was approximately 381,000 metric tons,” says Jacqueline Nakashian, RD, Director of Programs, COOC. “Our 2-4 million gallons production in California equates to approximately 7,500 – 15,000 metric tons. Most of our members would classify as micro- producers – or those with less than 5,000 gallons harvested annually.”

“We have 13 handlers who produce 5,000 gallons of EVOO,” says Chris Zanobini, President/CEO at Ag Association Management Services Inc., and manager for the OOCC. “This does not include any flavored or compressed oil. They [create] approximately 95% of all California production which is approximately three million gallons this season.”

The California Olive Oil Council Certification

OOCC label

The state’s olive oil producers founded the COOC to assure quality and encourage consumption. The trade organization promotes certified California extra virgin olive oil through education, outreach, and communication. Council membership also helps olive oil producers stay connected in the industry and producers can participate in the organization’s Seal Certification Program. Participants annually submit their most recently harvested oil to the certification program so they can continue using the seal and retain EVOO certification. The program opens every November and concludes in April of the following year.

For producers yielding more than 5,000 gallons, their oils are also lab tested for insoluble impurities, percent of DAGs (diacylglycerols), and percent of PPPs (pyropheophytin). After an oil passes analysis, sensory panelists assess its fruitiness and ensure it is free from flavor-related defects.

“The seal also provides consumers with peace of mind,” Nakashian says. “They can trust they’re purchasing an oil that passes chemical and sensory analyses to verify it is, in fact, extra virgin-grade olive oil. Oils are assessed on the median of defects and fruitiness, free acidity, peroxide value, and UV absorbency.” The seal confirms an oil’s freshness and quality.”

“When an oil bears the COOC Seal, you can rest assured the olives were freshly harvested and promptly milled,” Nakashian says. “The resulting oil was chemically tested and proven to meet our standards and requirements, and it has been blind taste-tested by an accredited sensory panel to ascertain the unique flavors of the oil. Today a private group, Modern Olives (affiliated with Cobram) assesses submitted oils, although COOC certified oils are far fewer than in the past since the COOC disbanded its own tasting panel some producers are still using the certification. Read more about Cobram.

COOC also educates consumers. “One of our roles is to help support consumers through education and marketing activities so they can confidently purchase California Extra Virgin Olive Oil for the quality, and fall in love with its unique and flavorful taste,” Nakashian says.

Olive Oil Commission Of California

Olive producers that harvest more than 5,000 gallons must also annually participate in the Olive Oil Commission of California ’s mandatory sampling and testing program and pay a yearly fee to the Commission.

“No one really owns the commission,” Zanobini says. “The OOCC is a State Commission, authorized through legislation. The founders, owners, and operators are, in essence, the growers of olive oil who produce 5,000 gallons or more. “The sampling and testing programs do full chemistry and sensory testing on up to six lots of each handler’s olive oil. Handlers must test all lots of olive oil on their own, after harvest in January/February.”  Producers of lower amounts may participate voluntarily. Certification also reflects California Department of Food and Agriculture standards. Producers may participate in both organizations.

The OOCC also funds critical research on behalf of the industry. Paid for by growers who produce 5,000 gallons or more, OOCC research evaluates the mandatory testing program, canopy, water management, nutrient management, and disease control.

Recent research topics have included:

- Analysis of Harvest Oil Quality Data

- Evaluation of Fatty Acid and Sterol Profiles for California Olive Oils

- Literature Review on “Best Before” Date Predictors for Olive Oil

- Survey on California commercial olive oil off-the-shelf, in the marketplace

CA GROWN

In regards to certifications, OOCC provides required labeling rules. These rules include details about harvest date, use by date, and the origin of the olives. The California Grown label is optional for members and the OOCC label is also optional for members in good standing.

Looking Forward

Nakashian believes the California olive oil industry has a bright future. “As a drought-tolerant crop that flourishes in California’s climate, there are many opportunities to grow and produce unique and exciting olive oils here. Olives have low pest and disease pressures and some varieties – specifically Arbequina, Koroneiki, and Arbosana – can be planted in high density, allowing for mechanical harvesting.”

As consumers become even more educated about California olive oil, hopefully they will look for harvest dates as well as certification seals.