The Olive Oil of Calabria
Editor’s note: Our sincere thanks to olive oil expert Simona Cognoli for her help with both research and photography for this story.
Calabria is the southernmost region of the Italian peninsula, bordered by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west and the Ionian Sea to the east and southeast. Often dubbed as "the Boot's toe," it offers an incredible wealth of natural environments, ranging from the Mediterranean landscapes of its coasts — generally rocky and steep on the Tyrrhenian side and low and sandy on the Ionian side — to the more rugged and wild inland areas: the Pollino massif to the north, the Sila plateau in the center, and the Aspromonte massif to the south. It also offers agricultural treasures including olive oil.
A Rich Regional Heritage
Crossing Calabria offers an immersion in the utmost beauty of the natural landscapes and in the cradle of the Mediterranean culture in Italy, visiting the places once inhabited by the ancient populations and later sparkling with the cultural splendor of the first Greek colonies of the so-called Magna Graecia. Stunning archaeological sites and precious testimonies of classical Greek art are a shining example of this: the Riace Bronzes, two statues depicting nude men, originally armed with a shield and spear, and considered one of the most important finds in the history of Greek sculpture, have become the symbols of Reggio Calabria, the main town in the region.
This extraordinary territory also boasts a considerable gastronomic heritage with unique and inimitable food products such as the intensely scented yet sweet Tropea red onion, the intense licorice from Rossano, the fragrant bergamot citrus, caciocavallo silano (a semi-hard cheese), and the fiercely spicy 'nduja, probably the most iconic cured meat from Italy.
Olive Cultivars for Extra Virgin Olive Oil
But above all, extra virgin olive oil plays a primary role here. The olive tree has been a symbol of the region for centuries, benefiting from the Mediterranean climate conducive to its cultivation. The local olive heritage includes 33 native varieties, among which the most common are carolea, dolce di Rossano, sinopolese, grossa di Gerace, tondina, ottobratica, grossa di Cassano, and tonda di Strongoli. These contribute, to varying extent depending on the geographical areas, to the production of the extra virgin oils certified by the PGI Olio di Calabria and PDOs Lametia, Bruzio, and Alto Crotonese.
The numerous olive varieties allow for the production of extra virgin olive oils with different sensory characteristics that enhance the Calabrian traditional cuisine's robust flavors and more gourmet recipes. Ottobratica, for example, gives rich yet balanced oils recommended for preparing grilled red meats and specific traditional recipes like "minestra calabrese,” rich in wild herbs and legumes, or pipi e patate (a side dish of peppers and potatoes). While the harmonic and herbaceous carolea is ideal for preparing roasted meats and vegetables and enhances the flavor of fish dishes like the traditional stocco alla mammolese (dried cod with Tropea onions, tomatoes, olives, and capers).
Regional production accounts for about 30% of the national total, yet it still struggles to find the well-reserved regard, as it has historically been associated with low-quality olive oil or oils with a strong flavor. However, over the last thirty years, a significant production renewal has placed several companies in the international market. Their high-quality production is closely tied to environmental protection, the preservation of olive-growing landscapes, and a solid historical and cultural identity.
Outstanding Producers of Calabrian Olive Oil
In Vaccarizzo Albanese, a hilly town of Arbëreshë tradition (following the historical migrations from Albania, facing on the other shore of the Ionian Sea) overlooking the plain of Sibari and the Ionian Sea, the five Librandi brothers manage the family business Tenute Pasquale Librandi, spanning 205 hectares of hilly land with organic olive groves and citrus orchards dedicated to producing renowned extra virgin olive oils, and delicious jams. The monovarietal Carolea stands out among their oil labels, with remarkable vegetal and herbal notes on the nose and soft hints of unripe almond on the palate.
The Costantino farm and country house occupies an old rural village near Maida, a village close to Lamezia Terme, which has been carefully restored, preserving its original agricultural and social vocation. The various activities include the production of Lametia PDO and Olio di Calabria PGI labels from 60 hectares of century-old olive groves, marmalades, jams, dried fruit, flours, and preserved vegetables, besides educational services and hospitality. They also promote sustainable and "slow" tourism, making it an ideal choice for visiting Calabria and enjoying this southern region's warm welcome and delicious specialties.
Located in the Gulf of Lamezia Terme—the mythological coast where Ulysses landed on his journey back to Ithaca in the Odyssey, the famous ancient Greek epic poem narrated by Homer — the organic farm Neocastrum produces the monovarietal carolea from over 90 hectares distributed across several estates. They also cultivate citrus fruits, prickly pears, zibibbo and malvasia grapes, vegetables, grains, and rare local specialties such as the Nicastro pink garlic and pink onion. This is why the regional agency ARSAC recognized Neocastrum as one of the “Custodian Farmers” of Calabrian biodiversity.
The interest in organic and sustainable production has always guided the choices of entrepreneur Maria Amalia Stilo, who began renovating the company’s oil mill in the late 1990s, relocating it among the olive trees on the hills between Tiriolo and Settingiano in the Catanzaro province, and equipping it with a photovoltaic energy system. Today, the 85-year-old Amaliù (the name affectionately used by her late husband) manages her homonymous farm with unchanging enthusiasm and promotes new products in collaboration with Calabrian artisans, such as baked goods and chocolate eggs with extra virgin olive oil for Christmas and Easter.
Stilo’s commitment to maintaining olive-growing traditions while allowing for change echoes the even broader effort made by the Fazari brothers. With Olearia San Giorgio — the family company founded in 1992 in San Giorgio Morgeto, at the foot of Aspromonte National Park — they are continuing their grandfather Domenico’s work in cultivating olive groves and operating the oil mill, thus also contributing to the preservation of historic olive groves which helps to limit the increasing phenomenon of their abandonment. From over 2,500 olive trees of the native varieties carolea, ottobratica, sinopolese, roggianella, and ciciarello, they extract various types of high-quality extra virgin oils. The company has distinguished itself in the productive recovery and valorization of the ottobratica olive, a majestic tree with small fruits that ripen in October.
In a commendable initiative, the Antico Frantoio Lopes company, located on the hills of San Demetrio Corone in the province of Cosenza—where the Dolce di Rossano, Roggianella, and other local olive varieties grow—offers the opportunity to adopt an olive tree by choosing variety and geographical exposure, receiving the extra virgin olive oil produced each year. The company production also includes Baby Bio, a gentle extra virgin olive oil made with selected olives for the little ones, following a family tradition, and Notturno, resulting from the night harvest to ensure milder temperatures and avoid the risk of fermentation and deterioration of the organically grown fruits
Yet, there are even those who don’t settle with adopting an olive tree from afar: the Italian-Finnish couple formed by Salla and Antonino decided in 2014 to settle in his home region and move to the ancient medieval village of Curinga, surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, perched on a hill overlooking the sea, setting up their farm. At Verde Vivace they sustainably cultivate their olive groves to produce a high-quality organic extra virgin olive oil that, keeping up to the company’s name, is “green and bright.” And they wish to showcase the beauty of Calabria, which they describe as a "region rich in history, with enchanting landscapes and surprising cuisine."
A cuisine based on excellent food products that the most passionate can also savor from a distance by purchasing them from the online shop of Casa Folino. Established in the post-war period, the company still successfully strives to select and offer Calabrian specialties – including the carolea mono varietal extra virgin olive oil and several vegetables preserved in oil – to customers worldwide.