Racing to Save Olive Oil from Climate Change

Olive oil in cooking photo credit Kristina Snowasp

It’s rare that food is as tasty as it is foundational to a wholesome and well-rounded diet. Many delicious things—wine, cheese, chocolate—offer some health benefits, but also come with enough negatives that overconsumption poses a genuine threat to a person’s wellbeing. 

But olive oil’s ability to increase levels of good cholesterol, lower levels of bad cholesterol, and its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant components—in addition to its versatility in sweet and savory recipes— have made it a culinary star.

Climate change may be threatening this Mediterranean Diet staple, but producers are acting to save the $15.11 billion business, the hundreds of thousands of jobs associated with it, and our ability to eat well, while also eating deliciously. 

Climate Change and Olive Oil

Olive groves photo credit Andreas Weilguny

The production of olive oil faces imminent threats from increasingly warm winters, recurring droughts, extreme rain and the anticipated decline in cyclical solar activity, according to multiple studies, including one on water stress and solar activity, published in the journal Nature in April 2025. 

On the ground, producers are witnessing challenging conditions. 

Close up of olives

“In the past two years, our farm has been significantly affected by floods, chronic drought and record-breaking heat,” says Athanasios Demeslis, founder of Myrolion, a regenerative olive brand in Thessaly, Greece. “In 2023, back-to-back floods destroyed infrastructure and crushed revenue. In 2024, we faced over six months of minimal rainfall and 30°C+ [86°F+] temperatures stretching from April to October. Chilling hours dropped dramatically, undermining olive bud development and yields.”

Ana Carrilho photo credit Esporão

At Esporão in Portugal’s Alentejo region, oleologist Ana Carrilho says that since entering the olive oil business in 1997, they have seen increasing issues linked to climate change at their 250 acres of organic olive groves, and that of their 60 partner farmers. 

“Among the most challenging phenomena are prolonged droughts, the increased frequency and intensity of heatwaves, and water scarcity—issues that have become structural, particularly concerning for our traditional rainfed olive groves,” Carrilho says. 

Although the olive tree is renowned for its resilience, consecutive years of intense water and heat stress can be debilitating for the quality of the harvest, and the yield over time. And on a yearly basis, Carrilho says they often are forced to harvest on the fly, earlier than they’d like.

“We’ve been bringing the harvest forward, both because olive maturation occurs increasingly earlier and due to the heightened pressure of diseases like anthracnose (Gloeosporium olivarum), associated with heat and humidity conditions,” Carrilho says. “It is a race against time to ensure that olive quality isn't compromised, thus preserving the excellence of our oils.”

Aside from harvesting ever-earlier, olive farmers are adapting many of their farming methods for climate change, and they are also planning for the future—often by looking to the past. Read more about how climate change is impacting olive oil. 

Irrigation and Pruning

Filipa Grilo

Olive production levels challenged by extreme weather. But many producers, like Filipa Grilo, PhD, an agronomist at Corto Olive Co. in Lodi, CA, say they are more concerned about how these changes will “affect water usage, phenological timings, flower and fruit set, yield and quality of olives.”

To offset both production and quality concerns, Grilo says they are exploring regulated deficit irrigation—whereby a water deficit is intentionally imposed to improve water use efficiency over time—and utilizing seed-mix cover crops to improve soil coverage, promote flora biodiversity and decrease soil moisture evaporation.

“We are also applying organic compounds like kaolin clay particles to reduce canopy temperature and heat stress, improve fruit quality and boost weather resilience,” Grilo says. 

Carrilho at Esporão says they are also adapting their cultivation methods through time-tested techniques like optimizing soil health and microbial biodiversity through the application of organic compost, and technological advancements, like monitoring soil moisture and plant water status to deploy controlled deficit irrigation only when necessary. 

Seeking Out Old and New Breeds

Olive tree photo credit Mohamed Fsili

But what really inspires Carrilho is Esporão’s investment centuries in Portugal’s past.

“We are investing in a deep understanding of our genetic heritage, preparing it for future challenges and ensuring its continuity in harmony with ecosystems,” Carrilho says. “We are conserving and deeply studying Portuguese autochthonous varieties like galega, cobrancosa and cordovil, among others that are less represented and can be rescued.”

Galega, considered by many to be the key to the future, was cast aside, due to its finicky nature that makes it hard to grow on an industrial scale.

“It has vigorous growth, low planting density and difficulty in fruit detachment,” Carrilho explains. “These characteristics made its integration into agricultural models aimed at mechanization and immediate yield maximization challenging.”

But Esporão is embracing it for its resilience in traditional rainfed groves, and the exceptional sensory quality of the oils it produces. 

“Galega yields oils with an unmistakable organoleptic profile:smooth, with a marked sweetness, discreet bitterness, and elegant notes of ripe apple, nuts, and banana peel—attributes not replicated in other cultivars,” Carrilho says. “Agronomically, galega shows remarkable adaptation to the edaphoclimatic conditions of southern Portugal. Its deep root system allows efficient soil exploration, granting it greater tolerance to prolonged periods of water deficit.”

Esporão is in the midst of planting a galega grove, and will continue to explore other autochthonous varieties. 

At Myrolion, Demeslis says they are “crossbreeding wild and heritage cultivars in collaboration with academic agronomists.”

The agronomy team is also piloting the use of shade trees to stabilize the soil and shield young trees from the ravages of extreme weather. 

With more than 2,000 existing olive tree varieties, which grew and evolved in different climates over hundreds of years, there is a lot of reason to hope that olive oil won’t just continue to be a cornerstone of a healthy but delicious diet, but that it will be produced in a way that may be more suitable for the planet, and our palates. 

“Olive oil isn't just a product—it's a living expression of the territory, culture, and history of those who produce it,” Carrilho says. “In Portugal, particularly in Alentejo, the olive tree isn't just a tree: it's a landmark in the landscape, an identity element that has shaped local economies, agricultural traditions, and community relationships over centuries.”